Monday, June 11, 2007

Son güle güle

Final goodbye.
I am in Istanbul and fly out today. I am in a real funk. Sam left earlier this morning, so I'm sitting here alone and I can't imagine leaving Turkey, Elbeyli, the people...The last four months have had more than their fair share of trials, but overall, this is an amazing place and I've made some wonderful wonderful friends.

When some people are sad they shop. I'm generally not one of those people, but I have to confess yesterday I engaged in some high scale catharsism. For my 40th birthday (don't tell anyone, but, yes, I'm about to turn 40), mom and dad said they would put money toward a very nice Turkish carpet. So yesterday Sam and I went from carpet shop to carpet shop. It was actually very fun. Because I was seriously looking, each shop sat us in their showroom, gave us tea and started to pull out rug after rug. I saw a lot of stunning rugs - most of them far too expensive. (My favorite was an all-silk for about $11,000!) At about 3pm, I was about to give up. I'd seen several rugs I liked, but none that said, "Misty!" I told Sam that we'd try one more shop, and then I was done. When we walked in, I (as I had done at every other shop) told the guy what I was interested in and what colors I wanted. So he sat us down, gave us tea, and then the heavy hitting salesman came in and joined us. We just sat around and chatted for maybe 30 minutes or more - not talking about rugs at all. Our salesman was very nice and funny - so we had fun chatting. Then he seamlessly moved the conversation to rugs, at which point the first man (who was in his late 20s and looked like a young Tom Cruise!) pulled out three rugs right away that were what I had described (which was not done at every other shop) and one undoubtedly said, "Misty!" So we sat there and chatted, and I stared, and said I couldn't afford the rug. Over the next hour of chatting, looking, walking around the rug, the price came down almost $600. So I am now the proud owner of a Turkish carpet! It has made an already problematic luggage situation even worse, but Sam and I will figure it out. (Sam gets tons of kudos for hauling all sorts of luggage for me on her journey home!!!)

All of my final photos are on Sam's camera, so I will post photos when I get them from her in a few days.

Thursday, June 7, 2007


Hi all -
I will tell more and post some photos later, but for now - Cappadocia was amazing!

Now that we're back, I'm really focused on getting everything ready to go... I can't believe it's already time to go home. I'm going to miss Elbeyli, the people, and Turky more than I can say. I'm trying not to be too depressed about saying goodbye -

and FYI, I mistyped in my last post. We leave for Istanbul very early on 10 June, not 9 June. Our flight out is at 4:45am, so Sat night (9 June) we are going to Antep and will stay in a hotel. Then we will have an entire day in Istanbul. Unfortunately, my trip home includes a 20 hour layover in Frankfurt - and most of that is overnight, so not a lot of time to play. (With my baggage, it will be a pain to leave the airport, anyway.) I will finally be in Ithaca Tuesday evening (12 June).

Talk to you soon!

Sunday, June 3, 2007

Our social whirwind

Ok - this post is going to be unbelievably long! Before Safak, Ben, and Erica left last Thursday, we did a photo swap - and going through their photos, I realized I have lots of fun things to share. So bear with me!

Things here are rapidly winding down, but we are really enjoying our final days here. Last Wednesday, Samantha arrived from Ithaca. Yay! It is great having her here. Unfortunately, Safak, Benjamin, and Erica left on Thursday – so she didn’t really get to experience Team Hamster.

In honor of her arrival and their departure, we had a big kabob dinner on Wed night with a bunch of our friends. It was incredibly fun!

[Cumali (standing), me, Sam, Safak, Turgut, Erica, Makas, Halil, Yusuf, Camil, football friend (I can't remember his name); Photo by Ben]

Actually, over the past several days, we’ve been very social. Tuesday night Erica and I invited our neighbors from across the street over for tea. How delightful! It was Zeyrin who is probably about 30 and has a young son Yusuf, her sister-in-law (?) Fatma, Fatma’s daughter Tuba, and a friend of Tuba’s. They are all such energetic fun women – we really enjoyed ourselves.

[Tuba's friend, Tuba, Yusuf, Zeyrin, me, Fatma; Photo by Erica]

One of Safak’s good friends here is a man named Ramazan - his mother and wife had Sam, Erica, and me over for lunch on Wednesday. That was fun because we got to watch Mom make lentil köfte – a yummy Turkish dish. After lunch, we went and had a final tea (final for Erica) with Zeyrin.

Thursday was spent watching Erica, Ben, and Safak run around getting ready to go. They took off at 1ish, and after they left the house was so so quiet! That night Cumali and Zeliha had us over for dinner – it’s kind of like when I was a kid and Mom would go out of town. All of the neighbors invited us over for dinner!

That day we also went across the street to meet a brand new set of twins. Zehrin’s sister-in-law, Elif, had just given birth. I probably should say, “They were so cute!” but actually, they were just babies. I was, however, interested in their attire. They each had heavy black eyeliner around each eye – I don’t know the significance of that; and they were wrapped in little cocoons such that they couldn’t move at all. It was incredibly hot and not only were they wrapped, but when they were in bed, they were covered by a cloth.

On Friday, Sam and I had the neatest experience! In the afternoon, there was a knock on the door, and it was a little girl, Emine, who I adore. She was inviting us to come over and have tea at her grandmother’s house. We got there and her mother (Turgut’s wife - I can't remember her name!) was there as were her two sisters. They are possibly the most beautiful set of women ever. Before we had tea, Emine’s mom, took us into a small room with an adobe oven in the corner. There were two other women in there (Emine’s grandmother and a friend) – and they were all making bread over this oven. It was amazing to watch. I wish I’d had a camera – and I wish I could really describe the experience. But to watch these three women sitting on the ground, in their Turkish garb, in the heat, making bread… Emine’s mom was responsible for rolling the dough into balls; then friend rolled out the dough into big flat discs and threw the discs onto a big black circular metal disc that covered the fire; then grandmother took the bread off of the circular disk, draped it over a big metal rod, and slid it through a slot on the oven’s side into the fire. The entire process took hardly anytime at all. But the job was an all-day one as they were making enough bread to last for two months.

And believe it or not, I actually tried to make some! They let me roll out the dough – and I did a horrible job. It took me two tries, and the roller women still had to re-do it. But after my piece was cooked, mom gave it to me because it was the bread that I made. So I have bragged to multiple people here that I made bread (in Turkish: “Ekmek yapdum!”) – everyone just laughs at me!

[Turgut and his wife - this was taken at a tea we hosted a few weeks ago, but because I don't have any photos from the bread-making experience, I thought I'd include this one; Photo by Erica]

On Saturday, Sam and I needed to go to Kilis to run a few errands. Because we don’t have the van anymore (nor do we have a driver), we decided to take a dolmus (shuttle). That was a huge adventure because we had no clue where it would drop us off, nor were we sure where it would pick us up. We thought we had agreed with the driver that we’d be picked up at 12:00 at the vegetable market. Well – either we missed him, or he didn’t go there. Then when we asked if this was the right place for the dolmus to Elbeyli, we were told it wasn’t. So we ended up wandering to a bus stop on the road out of town – and waited and waited. While we were waiting, our friend Makas from Elbeyli drove by. Luckily he stopped and offered us a ride – because he said there were no more dolmus to Elbeyli! If we hadn’t seen him, we’d still be there! We were squeezed into the front of a truck with him and his mother (Sam sat on my lap) – which was very cozy. But his mother was adorable and kept smiling and hugging us. (Her incredibly good mood was probably due to the fact that Makas’s wife was going to give birth in a few hours!)

Then Saturday night, we went over to Camil’s house for tea. I absolutely love love love his family. They are all so warm and friendly – I feel like they are my own family here in Elbeyli. We had a marvelous time – and the fact that I could hold a conversation in Turkish for 2.5 hours is astounding! We have spent a fair amount of time with them. A week or so ago, we were invited to their house for dinner in celebration of Camil’s daughter’s first birthday. What an honor. After dinner, tons of other family members came over – and we all had cake and tea. So much fun.

[Ayse's birthday party- before the crowds arrived: Zeliha (not Cumali's wife Zeliha!), Halil, Camil, Camil/Halil/Zeliha's mom, Ayse, Yusuf, me, Erica, Ben, Dad)
Photo by Erica (or with Erica's camera)]

(If you haven’t picked up on the baby theme yet: Elif just had twins, Camil’s wife had a daughter a year ago, Makas’s wife had a boy last night, and Yusuf’s wife had a boy yesterday morning!)

In addition to the recent events, there are some not-so-recent adventures to share.
1. Yusuf invited us to a BBQ in his fields. It was wonderful. We sat under his trees and ate yummy kabob and enjoyed the company of our friends.

[Dad, ?, Safak, Yusuf, Makas; Photo by Erica. Camil and me; Photo by Ben]

2. A week ago Saturday, we went to a picnic with this same crew (Camil, Makas, Yusuf, etc) in Kilis and then afterward Camil, Safak, Erica, and I went dancing in Antep. That was an interesting experience! After spending four months in a world where women cover themselves (legs and arms and hair), going to a disco where the women were wearing virtually nothing was a bit of a shock! To be honest it would’ve been a shock anyway, but this was REALLY a shock! But we ignored them and just danced and had fun for ourselves.

3. A week or so ago, Ben, Erica, and I went to Urfa and Harran for the day. What an incredible trip!

According to wikipedia, Urfa "dates as far back as 8000 BC... It was one of several cities in the Euphrates-Tigris basin, the cradle of the Mesopotamian civilization. According to Turkish Muslim traditions Urfa is the biblical city of Ur, due to its proximity to the biblical village of Harran....Urfa is also known as the birthplace of Abraham, ...and the birthplace of Job." Amazing.

On the left is the very old mosque built to commemorate Abraham. The pond is full of sacred carp - because when Abraham was being burned for destroying pagan gods, God supposedly turned the coals to fish and the fire to water. On the right is the entrance to the cave where Abraham was born. I've been in lots of mosques, but never have I been in something that was so intense as this cave. There were many women inside this cave praying (they have separate sides for men and women) and it was the only time I have felt like an intruder on an incredibly private experience. (Both photos by Erica)

Harran was even more amazing. According to some sources it is the oldest continuously inhabitated city in the world - it is mentioned in the Bible (Genesis). It is also the site of the first University. Being there was indescribable.

[Remains of the first university, and one of the beehive homes that are common in Harran and down in Syria. Both photos by Erica]

Now I know it’s hard to imagine that we’re getting any work done in the midst of this social whirl, but Sam and I are walking the fields one final time just to get a count of potentially active hamster burrows – and I’m trying to get the house cleaned and organized for our departure.

And to prove we're working, here is a photo of me driving a tractor with Cumali! We are plowing up a field trying to find hamsters.

(Photo by Erica)
Tomorrow, Sam and I are going to Cappadocia for three days, and then we go to Istanbul very early on 9 June and fly home 11 June. I can’t believe it!

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Yes, I'm still here #2!

Apologies for falling off of the face of the earth. Depending on how you look at it, I either have nothing or everything to say... so I have opted for the nothing. The general story here is harvest. The farmers have started to harvest their fields, which makes doing systematic science very difficult. But the town is full of activity, which is in stark contrast to the first few months. For Team Hamster, life here is quickly wrapping up, which is sad on many levels. But I have to confess, I'm looking forward to being home. I'm really looking forward to seeing my parents for a week in WI at the end of June!

I hope all is well with everyone. After I get home (I land in the evening of 12 June), I will do a few more posts with lots of photos, so stay tuned.

Friday, May 11, 2007

It's a boy!

The other day we caught another pup - this one was a male. Below are some photos that Bob took of the pup and the crew. All we did was weigh and dye mark this animal, but by looking at him you'd think we were showing him scary movies!

Tuesday, May 8, 2007


No, we don't have rhododendron here - though we do have gorgeous roses! We have a rose bush in our courtyard, and some neighbors gave us some roses from their garden, so we have a huge stunning bouquet on the table.

But Dad just sent me these pictures of his rhododendron, so I thought I'd share with everyone.

Monday, May 7, 2007

I'm still trundling along

I must start out by telling you how much I love it here. The people are fantastic and life is very comfortable (most of the time). We have made some marvelous friends.

Last Saturday, Bob and Joan arrived. It's nice to have a bit of Ithaca here in Elbeyli.

The one negative thing I have to report is that my camera is broken. Last night Cumali took Erica and me to see part of a wedding party - and he tried to grab my camera to take photos, and the camera fell, bounced, spun, splattered... (can metal and plastic splatter?). Needless to say I am extremely disappointed. but such is life I guess.

PS. In my last entry, I posted two photos of a coffee shop in Antep. We went back there last Sat before picking up B&J at the airport. The flowers aren't in bloom, but the leaves have come out - and it is gorgeous! Too bad I can't take a picture of it...

Sunday, April 29, 2007

random additional photos

I have more space on here than I thought - so instead of deleting photos, I'll add a few -

A great little chai (tea) house in Antep. All across the courtyard there are wisteria (sp?). I can't wait to go back when they are in bloom! (Hopefully this Saturday we'll go - ). The group at the table is us.

Erica, Laura, Misty, and Alice - don't mess with us! (Photo: Safak)
Me and Nuri. Typical! (Photo: Safak)

Me implanting a transmitter in a little hamster. Mert took this photo, and I really like it. He actually got a great series of the entire surgery.

Friday, April 27, 2007

More Istanbul photos

Ok, I know this is cheating, but here are some photos from Istanbul that I took last year. Enjoy!

AyaSofya; and SultanAhmet, or Blue Mosque

Inside of Blue Mosque; and woman in Blue Mosque (this is a lucky lucky shot - I didn't want to obviously take a picture of her but she was so beautiful, so I held my camera down at my side, looked the other direction and snapped several frames - and this came out of it.)

Hello from Elbeyli

Hi all,

Here are a couple of travel photos - again, I don't have many good ones, so these will have to do.

(L) Mary on the Bosphorous in Istanbul
(R) the tomb of Osman Gazi in Bursa (he is either the founder of the Ottoman Empire or the father of the founder - in any case, he died in 1392 (!) and is a pretty important fella in the scheme of world history).

Life in Elbeyli certainly is quiet compared to Istanbul. But I have to say, I love it here, too. As much as I enjoyed the city, it feels great to be walking the fields again with the green, blue, breeze, sunshine, birds, etc.

Since I've been back, I have been playing catch-up - and finally feel like I'm there. So today was going to be my "read journal articles" day, but I'm posting here instead. Life here has been very quiet. The day I flew in from Istanbul, Laura and Safak went to Ankara. Laura is on her way home, and Safak is due back here on Monday. Then on 24 April, Benjamin flew to England for a job interview and returned this morning - and he got the job! So for the past few days, it has just been Erica and me, which has been delightful. A couple of days ago, after we came in from the field, we went to Mustafa's because E had never milked a cow before and wanted to try. (Mustafa is one of Cumali's friends who owns one of the tea houses and the small market where we do our local shopping.)

Then last night she and I went with Cumali to Mustafa's tea house and we played cards and hung out for an hour or so. Also very delightful - though we do cause quite a stir being the only women in the entire place.

Erica milking the cow; Mustafa and Cumali.

Erica and Mustafa riding M's motorcycle back to town.

Random Elbyli shots taken on the walk from Mustafa's back to our house.

Monday, April 23, 2007

Istanbul adventures - revised

I just got back from the most spectacular week. I have so fallen in love with Turkey - I may never come home. Mary flew over from DC and I met her Istanbul. There is so much to tell, that I'll say very little. In sum, we explored the major sites (Blue Mosque, AyaSofya, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar etc.) and wandered in random neighborhoods.

We also spent two days (one night) in the city of Bursa. Marvelous! Bursa is in the mountains, so is stunning. It also happens to be the end of the silk road and the beginning of the Ottoman Empire. We saw the tomb of the founder of the Ottoman Empire. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around that one!

In addition to amazing sights, we ate a never-ending stream of delicious foods; and everywhere we went we met fun and interesting people.

On our last night (Saturday) I was so bummed about leaving that I told Mary I was going to stay up all night because I didn't want to miss a minute of Istanbul time. When I said that, I didn't know if I was kidding or not. But I wasn't. We went out to a performance of the Whirling Dervishes (how do they do that?) then had dinner. After dinner, we went dancing with Erol, our adorable bellhop and one of his friends. At about 1ish, Erol and his friend left because Erol had to work the next day. M and I stayed at the bar chatting with some very cool New Zealanders - one of whom is a vet who works with international animal regulations and can possibly put me in touch with the appropriate Turkish authorities for sending hamsters home! Then, we actually closed the bar. Old stodgy me - closed a bar. So the four of us wandered Istanbul at 2:00 in the morning - and found another open pub where we sat and chatted until 4am, at which point I needed to get back to the hotel to get ready and catch my 4:45 shuttle to the airport.

P.S. My photos from the trip aren't so good so I've included some wikipedia links for more information and some photos.

Friday, April 13, 2007

Tomorrow I'm off!

Today was a good day. This morning spent several hours in the field, then this afternoon Erica and I went for a 5K run. Of course I made sure to eat lots of chocolate to counter any beneficial effects of the run and field work.

I can't believe it, but this weekend marks the halfway point. As a treat to myself, I am flying to Istanbul tomorrow to meet my best friend from 7th grade, Mary. We are going to explore and enjoy the city and its environs for seven glorious days!

I'm sure I'll have plenty of photos to post when I get back, so check back after 22 April. As a warning, however, I'm running out of room on here, so I will probably have to delete some of the older photographs.

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Happy birthday, Erica!

Today is Erica's birthday - so we went to the zoo in Antep for a sunny day of non-hamster viewing. It was delightful! The zoo itself was quite nice with huge enclosures for everything but the primates. The primate house was incredibly distressing, but the rest was marvelous.

Monday, April 9, 2007

Spring is here!

I don't know if this is true for the rest of you, but spring has arrived in Elbeyli. It is a beautiful warm day, with blue skies, larks singing continuously, and incredibly green fields. Add to this the colorful shepherds with their flocks and the marvelous Turkish and Syrian villages that dot the countryside, and you have something out of a storybook.

Yesterday, as I was watching a hamster burrow, an orange, black, and white moth/butterfuly (I don't know which) sunned itself next to me on a mottled gray rock. We just sat in silence and watched nothing happen at the burrow.

And today, the flowers in our courtyard are starting to bloom. Any time now, our rose bush will burst forth.

I hope your days are as lovely as this!

Friday, April 6, 2007

Yes, I'm still here!

So much time has passed since my last post that I'm sure no one is checking anymore. Anyone out there? Let me know if you are - I'd love to hear from you!

Life here went through a pretty rocky period, but we are now settled again. We're getting lots of good data on hamster activity - and are getting ready to start a couple of field experiments. So the science is progressing. Yesterday we went on a run - I ran 7k! I think I'm going to keep my runs to below 7k, however - I don't want to ruin my knees, and I can sure feel the effects of running on our paved road.

Unfortunately, Alice had to leave team hamster today. She is meeting some friends in Capadoccia and then she heads back to the States to start a new job. We are really going to miss her.

So on we go to the next phase of our hamster adventure!

Friday, March 30, 2007

a couple more photos from our hike

Again, these are courtesy of Laura -

Thursday, March 29, 2007

29 March

Hi all,

Sorry I've been so remiss in posting. The past week has been very full - of fun and stress. The brief version:
* We've captured a few more animals, but the cool part is we've recaptured some animals from before.
* We took a short hike near here that was full of floral and faunal surprises - wonderful.
* We took a trip to Nemrut, a cool mountain in Eastern Anatolia where some egomaniacal king in 64 BC had various statues built of himself and his god "relatives." When we arrived, the road to the top was covered in snow, so we hiked up - the views were absolutely stunning! I'll leave the pictures to tell the story.

Our hike:

the view; Laura and a tortoise

Our trip to Nemrut:

Here we are heading away from the car to the top of Nemrut (photo by Ben); the further we went, the steeper it got.

Laura and Safak working their way up; and a view from the road up - that is the Euphrates in the background.

The final steep snowy bit just before the top. I have to admit, I didn't have the nerve to traverse this stretch - so the photos of the statues were taken by others who actually saw them. (Photo by Ben)

Statue heads in the snow and Dietmar with the statues - the heads have fallen off, so they are on the ground in front of the bodies (photos by Ben).

Erica next to a head (photo by Ben) and Alice on top (photo by ? - it was on Alice's camera)

Here are a few more pictures of daily life here in Elbeyli and beyond.

Our house - taken from the street (photo by Alice); Cumalil and me in the field (photo by Erica).

Elbeyli as viewed from our field site (photo by Erica).

Street in Gaziantep and the women of Team Hamster with their new rugs (photos by Erica).